Installing a door in an existing wall typically costs $1,000-$4,500, with a national-style average near $2,500 for a standard interior doorway. Wall type, whether it carries a load, finish repairs, door quality, and local labor rates can move the quote considerably.
| Item | Low | Average | High | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Interior door opening, non-load-bearing wall | $700 | $1,700 | $3,500 | Standard framed wall, basic door and trim |
| Interior opening in load-bearing wall | $1,800 | $4,000 | $8,000 | Includes temporary support and structural header |
| Exterior door installed in a new wall opening | $2,500 | $5,500 | $12,000 | Includes weatherproofing and more finish work |
| Labor rate | $50/hr | $85/hr | $150/hr | Rates vary by trade, location, and project scope |
What a New Interior Doorway Usually Costs
For a typical interior door cut into a finished, non-load-bearing wall, homeowners commonly pay $1,000-$3,500 total. A straightforward job includes measuring and cutting the opening, framing it, setting a prehung door, and patching nearby drywall. Painting, upgraded trim, electrical relocation, or an unusual wall structure can raise the bill.
A basic hollow-core prehung door often costs $100-$350; a solid-core option is commonly $250-$700. A contractor may charge another $300-$900 for casing, hardware, and finish carpentry, depending on the amount and quality of trim. The wall opening itself is generally priced by job scope rather than a simple square-foot rate, but a rough planning allowance is $20-$60 per sq ft of affected wall for demolition, framing, and basic patching.
For a standard interior door in an ordinary partition, budgeting about $1,700 is a reasonable starting point. That assumes a roughly 30- to 36-inch-wide door, accessible work area, standard materials, and no plumbing or wiring in the cut zone. Assumptions: typical U.S. labor rates, an interior wood-stud wall, one standard prehung door, and basic drywall repair.
How Framing, Drywall, and Door Materials Shape the Quote
Quotes often combine several trades or tasks. The table gives common ranges for a single interior opening; amounts may overlap when a contractor bids the work as a package. Larger openings, plaster, masonry, and structural engineering are not included in the basic non-bearing-wall totals.
| Quote component | Typical price | What it covers | Common cost driver |
|---|---|---|---|
| Door and hardware | $100-$1,200 per unit | Hollow-core to solid wood or specialty door, hinges, knob | Material, finish, fire rating, and glass |
| Demolition and opening | $200-$700 | Wall cutting, debris handling, opening preparation | Plaster, tile, or tight access |
| Framing and installation labor | $400-$1,200 | Jamb, header where needed, door setting, adjustments | Wall structure and opening size |
| Drywall, trim, and paint | $250-$1,000 | Patch, casing, joint finish, and paint touch-up | Finish matching and area repaired |
| Electrical or other relocation | $150-$1,000+ | Move switch, outlet, wiring, or small obstruction | Distance, circuit conditions, and code requirements |
Some contractors list material and labor separately; others provide one fixed bid. Ask whether the price includes hauling debris, both sides of the wall, painting, new casing, hardware, and cleanup. A quote that covers only the rough opening may look inexpensive but leave substantial finishing expenses for later.
Drywall and finish matching can add as much to a small doorway job as the door itself. For labor planning, a carpenter’s rate may be $60-$120 per hour, while a licensed electrician may charge $75-$150 per hour when wiring needs relocation.
Does a Load-Bearing Wall or Wider Opening Change the Price?
Yes. Cutting into a load-bearing wall requires transferring the load safely, typically with temporary supports and a correctly sized header or beam. A common interior project in a bearing wall costs $1,800-$8,000, while a wider opening or complicated structure can exceed $10,000. Engineering, permits, and finish work may be additional.
Door width affects framing and the amount of wall removed. A standard 30- to 36-inch opening is usually less demanding than a 48-inch opening, which may require a larger header and more careful load calculations. Openings wider than about 6 feet commonly need an engineered solution, particularly when the wall supports a floor, roof, or upper story. Actual requirements depend on span, loads, framing, and local code.
Wall material matters too. A wood-stud partition is generally less costly to open than a brick, concrete, or stone wall. Cutting masonry may add $500-$3,000 or more for specialized tools, dust control, structural reinforcement, and patching. Older plaster-and-lath walls can add $200-$1,000 compared with straightforward drywall work because they are slower to cut and repair.
Never assume a wall is non-load-bearing based only on its location or thickness. A contractor may need to inspect framing from an attic, basement, or access opening; an engineer’s assessment can cost approximately $300-$1,000 for a residential visit and written recommendation. Structural uncertainty should be resolved before demolition.
How Many Labor Hours Does a Door Opening Take?
A simple interior doorway often takes a two-person crew 6-12 hours on site, sometimes split across two visits to allow drywall compound to dry. A load-bearing opening may require 1-3 workdays, including temporary support, structural framing, inspection coordination, and repair. Exterior-door work can take longer because flashing, siding, insulation, and interior trim must all be integrated.
Carpenter rates commonly fall around $60-$120 per hour, with general labor or drywall finishing sometimes billed at $40-$90 per hour. Some markets use a project minimum of $250-$600 even for limited work. The labor estimate should specify crew size and whether the stated hours mean one worker’s hours or total crew time.
Scheduling can affect the final bill. A contractor may charge more for urgent work, weekend availability, or a short-notice inspection. If electrical work is needed, separate visits by a carpenter and electrician can add dispatch charges. Coordinating the trades in advance may reduce repeat trips, but the work should not be compressed in a way that skips proper drying, inspection, or structural support.
Ask for labor hours and trade rates when a quote is substantially higher than other bids. A detailed estimate makes it easier to distinguish a high hourly rate from a genuinely complex opening. Confirm whether cleanup, protection of floors, dust containment, and disposal are included.
Three Door-Installation Quotes for Different Wall Conditions
The examples below show how scope changes the total. They are illustrative U.S. estimates, not fixed national rates; local material prices, finish expectations, and contractor availability affect actual bids.
| Project | Estimated work | Price range | Approximate unit rate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bedroom door in partition | 32-inch hollow-core door, 8 labor hours, basic casing and drywall patch | $1,100-$2,300 | $34-$72 per inch of door width |
| Door through bearing wall | 36-inch solid-core door, temporary support, header, 18-30 labor hours, finish repair | $3,000-$7,500 | $83-$208 per inch of door width |
| Exterior entry door opening | 36-inch insulated prehung unit, framing, flashing, siding patch, 20-35 labor hours | $4,000-$9,500 | $111-$264 per inch of door width |
The first example assumes no hidden wiring or premium trim. The bearing-wall quote assumes a conventional wood-framed home and may exclude engineering or permit charges. The exterior example includes weather-sealing work but not major masonry repair or replacement of extensive siding.
Compare bids only after confirming that each includes the same door, structural work, finish level, and disposal. A low quote that excludes paint or exterior flashing is not directly comparable to a complete installation proposal.
How Location and Exterior Exposure Affect Door Prices
Labor and permit expenses are often higher in major metropolitan areas than in rural markets. As a broad planning adjustment, urban bids may run 10%-25% above a national middle estimate, while some rural bids may be 5%-15% lower. These differences are not guaranteed; limited contractor availability in a rural area can also increase travel or scheduling charges.
Exterior openings usually cost more than interior openings because the door must resist water, air, and temperature changes. A new exterior opening may require a threshold, pan flashing, weather barrier connections, insulation, and siding or brick repair. Those details can add $800-$3,000 over a similar interior project, especially when the wall has brick veneer or stucco.
Climate and local building practices affect product selection. Cold or windy regions may call for insulated doors and careful air sealing, while coastal locations may require corrosion-resistant hardware or impact-rated products. A standard exterior unit might cost $400-$1,500 before labor; premium fiberglass, wood, or impact-rated models can cost $1,500-$4,000 or more.
Use local quotes for the final budget, particularly for exterior work and structural openings. National ranges help set expectations, but they cannot account for local wage levels, the wall assembly, or regional code requirements.
When Permits and Inspections Add to the Doorway Budget
Permit rules vary by city and county. A simple interior opening in a non-bearing partition may not require a permit in some jurisdictions, while structural changes, exterior openings, and work affecting fire-rated walls often do. Permit fees commonly range from $50-$500 for a residential alteration, but larger or engineered projects can cost more.
Structural work may require drawings, an engineer’s letter, and one or more inspections. Engineering fees often fall around $300-$1,500 for a limited residential assessment, while complex plans can exceed that range. Budget for possible code-related changes such as smoke alarm relocation, fire blocking, or electrical corrections; these can add $100-$1,000 or more depending on what inspectors find.
Before work begins, the contractor or homeowner should verify who is responsible for applying and paying for permits. The written proposal should state whether inspection appointments, engineering documents, and correction work are included. Skipping a required permit can create problems during resale or insurance claims, and it may lead to rework or penalties.
Confirm local permit requirements before accepting a final price. A quote that excludes permit and engineering costs should identify those as allowances or separate charges rather than leaving the responsibility unclear.
Which Choices Can Lower the Cost of a New Door Opening?
Keep the project close to a standard door size where possible. A 30- to 36-inch prehung unit is widely available, while custom widths, unusual heights, arched tops, and sidelights can add hundreds to several thousand dollars. If the wall is non-bearing, keeping the opening in a clear section away from switches, plumbing, cabinets, and ducts can reduce demolition and relocation expenses.
Choose a door based on actual use rather than appearance alone. A hollow-core door is usually the least expensive choice for a closet or low-traffic room; a solid-core door can improve sound control but costs more and weighs more. Reusing matching trim may save $100-$400, provided it can be removed intact and the profile is available for any added pieces.
Homeowners can reduce labor by clearing furniture, protecting belongings, and identifying known wiring or pipes before the crew arrives. That preparation does not replace professional wall inspection or electrical work. Avoid opening the wall yourself if it may be load-bearing or contain utilities; accidental damage and unsafe temporary support can quickly erase any savings.
Request at least three written bids with identical scope, and ask contractors to separate optional upgrades from required work. If the existing wall opening can be repurposed or a nearby door can be relocated instead, compare that price with cutting a completely new opening. Do not remove structural work, flashing, or required permits merely to make a bid appear cheaper.
The biggest controllable savings usually come from standard sizing, limited finish changes, and clear scope—not from skipping structural safeguards. Set aside a 10%-15% contingency for hidden wiring, damaged framing, or unexpected finish repairs, especially in older homes.