A door costs about $150-$700 for a standard interior replacement and $600-$2,500 for a typical exterior door, including installation. The final price depends on whether the project needs a slab or complete prehung unit, the material and size, labor, hardware, and any changes to the frame or opening.
| Item | Low | Average | High | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Interior door installed | $150 | $450 | $1,200 | Standard hollow-core to solid-core or custom work |
| Exterior door installed | $600 | $1,500 | $4,500 | Basic steel to premium wood or fiberglass |
| Door slab only | $30 | $200 | $1,000 | Excludes frame, hardware, and labor |
| Installation labor | $100 | $300 | $900 | Higher for exterior, oversized, or altered openings |
Typical Door Prices by Interior and Exterior Use
For a standard interior opening, a replacement door commonly totals $150-$700, including a basic door and straightforward installation. A hollow-core slab is usually the least expensive choice; a solid-core or decorative prehung unit costs more. Painting, new casing, or frame repairs can increase the bill.
An exterior entry door typically costs $600-$2,500 installed. Basic steel models can land near the lower end, while fiberglass and wood units with decorative glass, premium finishes, or upgraded security hardware can exceed $3,000. Patio sliders and custom entry systems may cost more because of their size and installation requirements.
Prices assume a common 30-36-inch-wide interior door or 36-inch exterior door, an existing opening in usable condition, standard hardware, and ordinary access. Regional labor rates and local sales tax are not included. Assumptions: standard U.S. door sizes, midrange materials, no major framing repairs. For a like-for-like replacement, the opening and door type are usually as important to the estimate as the door’s sticker price.
What Door Materials, Labor, and Hardware Add to the Quote
A contractor’s quote may combine the door, frame, installation, trim, and disposal into one total. Asking for itemized amounts makes it easier to compare estimates, especially when one quote includes a new prehung unit and another prices only a slab.
| Quote component | Typical price | What changes the amount | Usually included |
|---|---|---|---|
| Interior door slab | $30-$500 | Hollow-core, solid-core, panel design | Door leaf only |
| Prehung interior unit | $100-$700 | Frame material, finish, size | Door and frame |
| Exterior door unit | $250-$2,500 | Steel, fiberglass, wood, glass | Door; frame varies by product |
| Installation labor | $100-$900 | Door type, fit, removal, frame condition | Set, level, fasten, and basic adjustment |
| Hardware and trim | $25-$500 | Lockset, deadbolt, casing, finish | Often priced separately |
| Removal and disposal | $25-$150 | Old unit weight and disposal rules | Haul-away may be an extra charge |
Typical installation labor runs about $50-$125 per hour, but many installers quote a flat rate per door instead. A simple interior replacement may take 2-4 hours; an exterior replacement often takes 4-8 hours, including sealing and fitting. Check whether the quote covers the frame, casing, lockset, weatherstripping, and disposal before comparing totals.
How Size, Material, and Frame Condition Change Door Prices
Size is a major price driver because standard doors are widely stocked, while unusual dimensions may require a special order or altered opening. Common interior widths are 24-36 inches; standard exterior entry doors are often 36 inches wide. An opening wider than 36 inches, taller than 80 inches, or otherwise nonstandard can add $100-$600 or more for a special unit and fitting work.
Material also changes both purchase price and performance. Hollow-core interior doors often cost $30-$150, while solid-core doors commonly run $100-$500. Basic steel exterior doors may cost $250-$800, fiberglass models about $500-$1,800, and wood doors roughly $600-$2,500 before installation. Glass inserts, custom panels, and specialty finishes can lift prices further.
Frame condition affects labor. If the jamb is square and sound, a slab replacement may be relatively simple. A prehung replacement, which includes a frame, often costs more upfront but can be the practical choice when the old jamb is damaged or the new door does not match the existing hinges and dimensions. Rot, water damage, or an out-of-square opening can add $150-$700 for carpentry and materials.
Exterior performance specifications can matter as well. Insulated cores, low-emissivity glass, weatherstripping, and multi-point locks may increase the product price by $100-$800, depending on the unit. Doors wider than 36 inches or with large glass panels may need additional handling or stronger hardware. Measure the slab, jamb, and rough opening separately; a measurement mismatch can turn a basic swap into a custom-fit job.
When a Slab Replacement Costs Less Than a Prehung Door
A slab-only replacement can save money when the existing frame is straight, solid, and compatible with the new door. Interior slabs often cost $30-$500, and labor may add $100-$300 for fitting, hinge mortising, and hanging. This route works best when the replacement matches the old door’s height, width, thickness, swing, and hinge locations.
A prehung unit includes the door attached to a frame, commonly costing $100-$700 for interior use or $250-$2,500 for an exterior unit. Installation may run $150-$500 for a basic interior opening and $300-$900 for exterior work. It is usually a better comparison when the existing frame is damaged, the opening needs new weather sealing, or the old door is poorly aligned.
Repair can be less expensive than replacing a whole door when the problem is limited. Adjusting hinges or a strike plate may cost $75-$200; replacing a lockset can be $50-$250 plus labor. A damaged exterior frame, widespread rot, or a door that no longer seals may make replacement more cost-effective. Compare the installed price of the slab and prehung options, not just the product prices.
Regional Labor Rates and Project Time Across the U.S.
Labor and contractor overhead often run higher in major coastal cities and high-cost metro areas than in smaller markets. As a broad budgeting adjustment, installation quotes in expensive urban markets may be 15%-30% above a national midrange estimate; rural and lower-cost regions may run 5%-15% below it. These are planning differences, not fixed local rates, and material availability can narrow or reverse them.
For a straightforward interior door, a carpenter or installer may charge $50-$125 per hour, with a minimum service charge of about $100-$250. A one-door visit may therefore cost more per unit than installing several doors during one appointment. Exterior work can require additional time for sill adjustment, flashing, insulation, and weatherproofing, which raises the labor total even when the door itself is standard.
Scheduling can affect the quote too. Busy remodeling periods may bring fewer appointment options, and urgent repairs can carry a $75-$250 rush or after-hours charge. Multiple-door projects may benefit from shared travel and setup, but only if the openings are similar and the installer can complete them in one visit. Request a written labor scope that states the expected visit length, minimum charge, and any travel or rush fees.
Three Door Replacement Quotes With Different Scope
These examples show how scope changes the installed price. They assume ordinary access and standard dimensions; local labor rates, taxes, and product availability can move the total.
| Example | Door and work | Labor estimate | Installed total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget interior | 30-inch hollow-core slab, reuse frame and hardware, $70-$130 door | 2-3 hours at $60-$95 per hour, $120-$285 | $220-$500 |
| Solid-core bedroom | 30-inch solid-core prehung unit, new casing and basic knob, $250-$500 materials | 3-5 hours at $65-$110 per hour, $195-$550 | $500-$1,150 |
| Fiberglass entry | 36-inch insulated prehung door, standard lockset and weather sealing, $900-$1,800 materials | 5-8 hours at $75-$125 per hour, $375-$1,000 | $1,400-$3,200 |
The totals include ordinary installation but not major opening reconstruction, premium smart locks, or custom glass. A detailed estimate should identify the door model or grade, hardware, trim, removal, and any allowance for repairs. Two estimates are only comparable when they cover the same door type and the same installation scope.
Extra Charges for Old Frames, Locks, Trim, and Disposal
Replacing only the door may leave other parts of the opening needing work. New casing or trim can add $100-$400 per opening, while patching and repainting may add $75-$300 depending on finish and wall damage. Painting or staining a new door can cost $75-$300 when completed by a contractor; factory-finished models may cost more upfront but need less site finishing.
Exterior work may require a new threshold, flashing, sill pan, or weatherstripping. These materials and installation commonly add $50-$300 when the opening is otherwise sound. If the sill or jamb has rot, repairs may add $150-$700, and extensive framing correction can exceed that amount. Old-unit removal and haul-away are often $25-$150, but heavy patio doors or restricted access can raise the charge.
Hardware ranges from a basic interior knob at $15-$60 to an exterior lockset and deadbolt package at $50-$250. Keypad or smart locks commonly add $100-$350 for hardware, plus installation if wiring, setup, or door preparation is needed. New hinges, security plates, or specialty handles can add another $20-$150. Ask the installer to separate required repairs from optional upgrades, particularly when the frame is still serviceable.
Ways to Lower the Installed Door Price Without Cutting Fit
Keep the project within a standard size when the existing opening is in good condition. A stock 30- or 32-inch interior door is usually less costly and faster to source than a custom width. Reusing sound hardware and trim can save $50-$400, but only when the parts fit the new door and remain in safe working order.
Choose material according to the door’s job. Hollow-core doors can be economical for closets and low-noise areas, while solid-core models may be worth the additional cost for bedrooms that need better sound control. For exterior openings, compare steel and fiberglass by insulation, finish, maintenance, and warranty rather than choosing solely by purchase price. Avoid paying for decorative glass or premium lock features that are not needed.
Get at least three itemized quotes for the same scope. Ask each installer to price removal, disposal, frame replacement, casing, finish work, and hardware separately. Scheduling several doors together may reduce per-door labor, particularly when the work is in the same home and the openings are standard. Prepare the work area by clearing furniture and access paths; confirm with the contractor whether any preparation can reduce billable time.
Do not choose a low quote that omits weatherproofing, shimming, or secure fastening on an exterior door. Poor installation can cause drafts, sticking, water entry, or lock problems that cost more to correct. The safest savings usually come from limiting unnecessary upgrades and keeping a sound opening intact, not from skipping proper fitting and sealing.